Margaritas before noon, and why that's fine here

Brunch that closes at half past three has its own clock, and on that clock a margarita at eleven isn't early, it's on schedule. Lalita's pours three: a straightforward lime, a tamarind version that leans sour-sweet, and a charred pineapple and jalapeño that shows up with a proper kick.

The lime margarita is the one to order first, if only to have the baseline before trying the others.

No plans for a margarita before your chilaquiles? There's a full run of cocktails and beers too, from a michelada to a carajillo, plus horchata, aguas frescas and coffee for the table that's keeping it to brunch food.